One of the best things you can do for your fiddle leaf fig (or really, any ficus or dramatic leafy queen) is to give it a fresh start—with a good, bold pruning. We’re not talking about a little trim here and there or even a maintenance cut. We’re talking about the mega prune. The kind of cutback that makes people gasp—and your plant grow like mad (see the image above—I didn't even leave a leaf).
Pruning helps build stronger trunks, pushes out fuller leaf growth, and gives you the chance to propagate. And yes, we use our Fiddle Leaf Treats® religiously afterward to prevent shock and fuel those brand new baby leaves.
Let’s get into how to do it right.
Why Prune? (Besides Wanting a Leafy Jungle Vibe)
You know that tall, leggy stick with leaves only at the top? It wants a makeover! What are you waiting for?!
Pruning helps you:
- Shape the plant how you want it to grow
- Encourage stronger, bushier branching
- Thicken up that skinny trunk
- Remove weak or damaged stems
- Fix a leggy tree
- And make room for new leaf growth
If you’re scared—don’t be. Your fig wants this.
Leggy, leaning fiddle leaf fig trees are just screaming out for a trim.
How often should I prune my ficus?
Depending on your desired result and shape, you can prune your tree once every year. And no, it doesn't always need to be this drastic.
Step-by-Step: How to Mega Prune Like a Pro
1. Assess the Shape
Take a good look at your plant. Where are leaves sparse? Are there awkward branches jutting out? Do you want one main trunk or a bushier, multi-stemmed look?
If you’ve got tiny branches starting way low on the trunk, it might be smart to snip those early. They can sap energy from your plant and distract from upward growth. But… surprise low branches can also be a sign your roots are stressed—check for root binding or issues before assuming it’s just a growth quirk. (See: Repotting Guide)
2. Pick Your Cut Points
Here’s the golden rule: cut just above a node (those knobby spots where a leaf once lived). That’s where new growth is going to pop.
Leaving 6–8 inches of stem or branch after a cut is optimal. If you’re aiming for a serious reset, you can cut down closer to the trunk—as long as it’s healthy.
The key is to evenly prune the entire plant. That's the best way to get predictable growth. One time I thought I would be cute and left one long branch on the tree. Guess what, it was ugly and the new growth was also haphazard.
3. Make the Cut
✅ Use clean, sharp shears (you’re performing plant surgery, after all).
✅ Make one decisive, angled cut per stem. A slight angle helps prevent water from sitting on the wound.
✅ Don’t snip halfway or leave shredded tissue—your plant deserves better than that.
✅ Keep a paper towel in hand to blot up sap (you don't want that on your clothing or flooring).
✅ Place a large vase nearby for your cuttings to keep them safe and from dripping on the floor.
Make clean cuts. Wipe up sap right away. Put cuttings in a vase.
Aftercare: Don’t Skip This Part
Once the prune is done, the real glow-up begins.
Here’s what we always do post-prune:
- Apply water and Fiddle Leaf Treats®. It’s our ficus-approved plant food designed to ease stress and jumpstart new growth. Use it right away and continue weekly.
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Check your light. After a big prune, your plant needs serious energy. A bright window is great, but a grow light is better if you don’t have at least 6 hours of bright, indirect sun. (This also helps keep your tree growing straight)
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Water normally (maybe a little less)—no drowning! Keep humidity up, but don’t overcompensate with soggy soil.
- Pro tip—with less foliage, your plant may need even less water than you would expect. Always check that the soil is about 50% dry before watering again. Don't just feel the top couple of inches, see our watering guide for best practices.
In a few weeks, you’ll see dormant nodes swell, then burst open with new leaves like it’s showing off.
Propagation: Because One Plant Is Never Enough
All those cuttings? Don’t toss them—propagate!
- Pick healthy stems with at least one node
- Woody stems? No problem—they can root just fine but take a little longer
- Strip off any lower leaves and pop into water, moss, or perlite
- Green stems? Opt for perlite or pumice propagation to avoid getting a rotting stem.
Want my fool proof method for successfuk propagations? I've got a whole guide for that: Hydroponic Hacks: Boosting Your Propagation Game
Avoid These Rookie Mistakes
- Uneven pruning—don't be tempted to do a "half-way" pruning by leaving a longer, lopsided branch.
- Cutting below a node, with no node between the trunk and the tip of the branch (nothing will grow back, but it will work great as a hat hook )
- Leaving ragged cuts
- Forgetting to clean your tools (hello, infections)
- Overwatering afterward
- Panicking when your plant looks like a sad stick—this is just the cocoon stage (don't be tempted to put it outside in the sun, leave it where it is)
Before & After: The Magic of the Mega Prune
I've done this countless times—especially with my own massive fiddle leaf fig trees and various rescue plants.
This image shows the progression of a year and a half after pruning down to the trunk... a full bush of brand new shiny leaves. She came back stronger than ever.
Final Thoughts: Trust the Cut
Pruning feels scary because it looks dramatic—but it’s one of the most powerful tools in your plant care toolbox.
When in doubt:
- Make the cut
- Feed with intention (Fiddle Leaf Treats® is your best friend)
- Let the light do the rest (get a grow light if you have to!)
And don’t forget—your plant is resilient. Don’t take my word for it. Let your plant show you.